Day to Day diary Yellowstone 2024
Jackson to Driggs
Increased bear activity set the sign as we approach the base of the Teton pass. A group photo by the elk monument built by the Boy Scouts in the 1960s, through Jackson hole via the bike path across a major road to pick up the glorious bike path that would take to take us to the top of the Teton pass. The cycle path itself was the old Road first built in the 1920s, and initially would take up to 2 weeks to get over this by wagon. The trail wound up through the trees, with great views to the left-hand side of Jackson, and smooth tarmac with various signs, saying watch out for the Bears moose and any other critters. It took about two hours to get to the top where we were greeted by mountain bikers and trucks unloading their bikes, ready to take the trails down to Jackson. The descent was fast as we passed through the section that had fallen off the mountain in the previous few months, to rejoin the cycle path appearing on the right. This meandered along pristine tarmac. In Victor unfortunately, the place we were heading for had just shut, so it was a mixture of a pizza, joint Mexican and the local market stall. The road to Driggs was dead straight as we utilised Rails-to-Trails that parallels the road to our right. We headed through a very wide valley full of abandoned agricultural machinery. Arriving at Driggs, he settled into the Pines motel and guest Haus. The owner was amazing because I had booked it so many months in advance. She had a group of agricultural grain pickers and she sent them away for the night so that we could stay in her motel. ‘Have you heard about the concert’ so, we spent the evening listening to dirty cello who played a free concert outside the town hall whilst we lay on blankets (lent by the motel), having constructed picnics from the local store.
Driggs to Ashton
Breakfast at Providence, which had a distinct Mexican influence, burrito anyone? Driggs is a typical small western town lots of the facades. Heading out expansive views all around us. Looking right the Tetons, look left, other mountains plenty of farmland. The road itself didn’t have a shoulder, but the drivers gave us plenty of room. After about 6 miles, along an extremely pleasant side road with a creek to the right hand side to arrive at Tetonia, where we raided the gas station for food. From here, there is a Rails-to-Trails all the way to Ashton. Two blocks down and totally unsigned was what looked the start of it, so unsure was I, that I checked with a bemused local. The start was indeed rough, small stones and grass centred, but gradually it got better. We crossed the road from Ashton ‘last chance to duck out’ but all carried on. What it revealed was an absolute delight, a trail that passed though the farmland with combines harvesting, and grain silos aplenty. There were cuttings and raised areas, along with 3 remarkable refurbished trestles over canyons and rivers. Parts gave extensive views, others passed between thickets of Aspen. It wasn’t the fastest but there were no cars and not as undulating as the tarmac road. Towards the end, you could chose to enter Ashton, but some stayed right to the end where the tracks were still laid leading to enormous grain silos. At the Fishing Bear in it was laundry time as a prequel to a Mexican meal downtown in this small sleepy community.
Ashton to West Yellowstone
Started the day early as temperatures of 31 degrees were forecasted and it is a longer day. 06:45 and Steve and I were ready with a table groaning with granola, milk and orange juice.
The Road was deserted as we took the long straight inclined road out of Ashton, after which we descended down to the warm river followed by another ascent. We passed an interpretation sign, for a long gone, ski resort, and then headed to the main attraction of the day, the lower and upper Mesa falls. Signs on the roadside announced that they are in the area, but the problem was there weren’t actually any signs to the falls themselves, so we missed the lower but found the upper. A half mile descent took us to an amazing falls where numerous gantries had been built to allow the crowds to view the water streaming over.
Back to the scenic byway, and we continued along the quiet road, surrounded by trees and intermittent views . We’d agreed to meet at the point where the road met route, 20. Far busier now, we would spend the rest of the day on this arterial route into West Yellowstone. The sun shone, mile after mile of holiday traffic streamed past, and we were left peddling, along with intermittent shoulder that was better in Idaho than Montana. (really noticeable, how the State line changed things) West Yellowstone arrived, where we divided into two places but met for an evening meal at a sports bar
West Yellowstone to Ennis
An early start fuelled by my late night visit to the supermarket, the previous night to purchase granola orange juice and lots of yoghurt as requested . Combined with coffee and fresh pastries, we were set up for a second longest ride of the holiday at 116 km.
Leaving Yellowstone, we passed a sign warning as a bison on the road, which for us was a super expectation, but like Jurassic Park, the animals didn’t appear. Heading left towards earthquake lake, turned into a delightfully quiet trip with the mountains to the right, and Hebdon lake to the left.
In the 1950s have been a major earthquake in the area that tilted head to Lake by 19° and it also created a landslip that it created earthquake lake. 29 people died on that night and the visitor centre situated on the landslip explained in detail that tragic night. All that was left now where the tops of the trees in the lake, and the scarified mountainside, where you could see the land slip beneath the Madison river continued to wind, its course northwoods filled with trout and pursued by an awful lot of fisherman in small boats.
A fast descent to the banks of the river, and a cracking tailwind meant that we were going to make excellent time. The only down side were the rumble strips and the intermittently narrow shoulder along which we had to negotiate today’s ride. However, the views were amazing with wide-open vistas featuring mountainside on either side.
Arriving at Ennis we settled into the motel, drank the free coffee and waited for a suitable time to saunter into town in search of dinner.
Dinner was a great success as we ended up in the Gravel bar. Initially it wasn’t looking great. This was Labor Day and the place was packed and there were 14 of us trying to get in to a reasonably small establishment. Eventually, though we took over all the barstools on one side chatted to the bartender and ordered. Next to us with various local characters mostly fisherman talking about the catches of the day. Everyone seem to enjoy the evening, even the bartender who commented that it was lovely to have a group that was completely non-demanding, something of a compliment.
Ennis to Virginia City
A languid start off as we set out for breakfast in Ennis. The café was shut, so we ended up at the pharmacy which was serving a delicious breakfast of all the usual suspects as photographs of former residence of Ennis stared down on us from the walls. ‘ most are gone now’ lamented a local as I took a picture of the wall.
Back at the red bear hotel we ready for what should have been a short hop over to Virginia city. The problem was the 700 meter pass in the way, however we managed it, some quicker than others. The highlight for me was the old Wagon trail trail at the summit that could still be seen, winding itself across the mountain. A fast descent into Virginia city is where we popped into the tourist information that was manned by extremely helpful person who gave us all sorts of information. Unfortunately for us arrived the day after Labor Day and so all the attractions are closed down ‘Well they have to go back to school and do other things’ was the reason. However, the good news was that they were 10 times the number of grizzly bears to the south of the town and particularly angry moose to the north. Hopefully any walk around town would bring about some kind of wildlife encounter.
We found our accommodation, the Bonanza inn with seven lovely ensuite, rooms, and the Daes house which had a twin and two queens. The Daes was well equipped with a cooker etc just there were no pots and pans.
We decided to cook tonight, and Peter was ready with his risotto recipe, the problem was that the local store had run out of all fresh material. This took a degree of ingenuity as I wandered up to a local offered him a beer for a frying pan to which he agreed. Peter managed to persuade the local pizza please to give him three onions, but the ultimate act of kindness was to pop into the one and only local food store local store where the good lady walked six blocks back to her house to scour her fridge for butter, while I mind at the shop, and she didn’t even ask for any payment. What a star. Then turned out that she had worked in London for 18 months as a nanny for Prunella Scales and Timothy West.
Evening spent eating crisps, watching Peter construct, a lovely risotto and whiling away the evening over a few bottles of wine
Rest Day in Virginia City
A day to explore Virginia City and the reconstructed Nevada City, featured in many Westerns
Virginia city to Whitehall
This was to be a flat fast day, and as Steve said, when was the last time he’d done an average of 17 miles an hour from start to finish.
The day started by exiting Virginia city, and passing Nevada city to follow the gulch. It had been extensively mined with heavy machinery for gold at the end of the 18th century. All around with piles of small and large stones, deposited as spoil, where gradually nature was recovering
Sheridan was the first stop after 20 miles, and as I’d been delayed at Virginia city, I arrived to find the group of gone, except for Sharon who had stayed at the bakery and coffee shop chatting to the waitress across an enormous counter. Coffee and doughnut consumed. The two of us were on our way further down the valley towards Two Bridges.
We were following a disused railroad on our right, and we’re on the Lewis and Clark Trail, as signified by the occasional interpretive sign recounting tales of daring do in the expedition of 1805.
Two bridges was notable for the war memorial, where we counted just how many conflicts around the world in the last century that the Americans had been involved in from Afghanistan to Korea to the two world wars
Broadly following the valley of the Jefferson river, the views were great, but it was pretty sparsely populated . Silverstar had a population of 40, but it did have a store. Unbelievably it was also a bookstore. As three of us perused the offerings, I asked, and it seemed that the proprietor specialised in books that would appeal to the local community so it was full of survival techniques, wood, chopping house, construction, and how to avoid being eaten by a bear
You could see Whitehall in the distance with the mountains to the right, and we descended towards the interstate where we stayed in the Jefferson hotel with a most helpful proprietor.
The evening was spent at the Silver Dollar , an American sports bar with posters on the ceiling, 8 types of beer on tap and the usual suspects for dinner. BLT, burgers and fries
Whitehall to Bozeman
Breakfast at the Jefferson, after which we headed east through Whitehall, but were delayed by all the murals that have been laid out to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Lewis and Clark. From river crossings to Indian and views they decorated this, otherwise insignificant small town.
With the interstate on our left, it was through farmland and fields, following narrower roads, zigzagging about.
Awaiting us was one of the prettiest sections of the trip so far, which was down the valley of Jefferson River, shared with the railroad. High cliffs and caves on a steady downhill, even an osprey, clutching a fish, it was a beautiful sight.
Passing the Lewis and Clark caverns on our left. The views became much wider and truly extensive. The traffic was reasonably light now as most of us took the gravel turning to Willow Creek, for here lay the saloon, and in it, lunch. Amy the waitress was really helpful showing us the gunshot wound in the ceiling and posing on the old tandem outside.
The second half of the day wasn’t quite as scenic, or as easy as the first. Heading through Three Forks, two of us, visited the railroad museum featuring the station, and waiting room, shifted from Victor, 6 miles away, where the community no longer existed. A surprising and unexpected Rails-to-Trails took us a long, the valley that now had a road, railway and the interstate as well as us pedalling away.
The heat was increasing, and the traffic was getting a little heavier. The views were hazy and the final 20 miles were more a case of getting to Bozeman than actually enjoying it. The road paralleled the interstate and should have been quieter. The shoulder was intermittent, so everybody needed a little bit of concentration to stay safe. Three folks chose a long way by 7 miles entering Bozeman from the west rather than the north.
The lark was a downtown motel with yellow doors, soft sheets and great Aircon. It was Friday night, so most of the restaurants and Cafes were full, but we managed to eat in various places, but I wasn’t particularly hungry, having downed 4 pints of chocolate milk, a couple of hours prior.
Rest Day in Bozeman
Pottered about, visited the museum, drank coffee.
Bozeman to Livingston
Breakfast at the Farmers Daughter where most feasted on the fruit compot with a cold blueberry sauce covered in fruit and coconut. There were 2 ways to Livingston today the shorter via the road by the interstate, the longer by Baskett Creek Road for which the group split, half going either way. Out of Bozeman and along a cunning footpath parallel to an old railway line to reveal another large grain store. Right through a housing estate to join a lovely tarmac path leading to a huge M carved in the hillside for Montana State. A gradual climb through a ravine led to the hills shrouded in haze due to far off forest fires. The groups split just past the old schoolhouse. I chatted to lady managing a Backroads trip. ‘We’re releasing a retro tour next year’ she smiled ‘unplugged’ meaning no electric bikes, a sign of the future. The road continued to climb as I followed the 2 tandems along Bridger Canyon Road through the diseased trees and past the mountain bike downhill that explained the extra traffic as pick-ups passed with bikes hanging of the back.
The summit at last to a grand descent and a right turn directed by the Backroads lady along Brackett Creek Road. I’d expected this to be gravel as we did this last time, backed up by it being pretty in distinct on the map. In reality it was a tarmacced delight. A short climb at the start after which it gradually descended through farmland. Trees mellowing yellow for autumn and some notable rock features to the left. A joy for tandems, no wonder I failed to catch them until 1/2 mile before Clyde Park where they picnicked on a log ‘The shop is open. But the cafe is closed’ Kay smiled explaining that the owner had cycled past.
In reality the bar was open. Windowless. I entered to be entertained by 14 locals watching the American football and sipped a coke at all of $1. Leaving Miami against Jacksonville on the TV, I followed the Highway south tracking yet another abandoned railway to the right.
Just before crossing the Yellowstone River, I headed right along fresh tarmac with great views of Elephanthead mountain over the river and was entertained by the echoing sound of a train with over 100 carriages powered by 3 engines at the front. 4 at the back in the valley below.
Into Livingston and past the trailer parks next to an enormous yard of railway tracks. Livingston centre was a delight, beautiful brick buildings and an ice cream shop
We finished the day at the Econolodge with a dip in its pool.
Livingston to Gardner
Breakfast contained the introduction to the waffle bar basically a big flat iron where you have to pour the mixture in, too some learning. We headed to Albertsons supermarket to gather to head up the valley, following the Yellowstone River to Gardner. Joyously, a cycle path appeared on the right hand side to avoid the main traffic heading towards Yellowstone, however with cosmic planning it failed to link to the quiet road to cross the Yellowstone River, so we all scrambled over the bank.
Pictures taken, it was a gradual uphill with magnificent mountain scenery ahead. We split into the usual groups, some fast, some slower, all admiring the scenery. Farmland and mountains with glimpses of the river to the right as we headed upstream. The shoulder was adequate and the vehicles considerate.
What was obvious was the haze on the hillsides, turning the usually blue sky and sharp peaks to a brownish haze, for wildfires were raging in eastern Montana.
At Prey the cafe was closed Monday, so as expected there was nowhere to stop on the ride. However, lunch stops gave a chance to admire Osprey, Bald eagles and Kingfishers, so not so bad
We joined route 89 about 2/3 into the ride. As a main road, it was busier, but cars and trucks were patient, but you had to take care with a narrow shoulder. The southerly wind re-emerged making things tougher for a few miles but heading SE through Yankee Jim Canyon made things a lot easier as with a tail wind, going slightly uphill was quick. I passed David and Christine who had retrieved their bread from Peter so were lunching late, and the day ended gliding into Gardner having seen a herd of both bison and Elk
The Yellowstone Rock Motel was great, big rooms and at 15:00 even let us in early. Diaries written, coffee drunk, we walked into town and over the high bridge to Iron Horse bar and grill where we drank beer, ate burgers and chewed ribs to the glowing moon and smog.
Gardner to Canyon
It had taken 2 hours the previous night to find a breakfast place. The supermarket was shut till 08:00 and all the cafes were closed on a Tuesday. However, the concession in the Motel 6 and two hard working ladies saw us through.
Over the bridge and into Yellowstone via the n=entrance and the obligatory photos. It was a steep climb onto the caldera with only a Pronghorn sighing in the bag of the big 8 (bear, wolf, bison, elk, pronghorn, moose, squirrel and chipmonk)
Through the park via Mammoth Hot Springs with its amazing terraces and past roaring mountain to finish in Canyon Lodges
Round trip to Fishing Bridge
The scrum that was Canyon Villages meal service continued as we were faced with a choice of oatmeal, eggs, bacon, potatoes or small waffles. A long queue and service like school dinners, but at least the servers were smiley, trouble was all the oatmeal had gone and cyclists just love porridge like material.
Away to head south for a there and back again ride. For the first time it was cloudy as we headed towards the lookout point over the spectacular upper falls at Canyon. Continuing we would be following the Yellowstone River initially through trees and along its bank and then into the wide-open expanse of the Hayden Valley, home to lots of different types of critters. The problem was it was empty, not a claw and hardly a feather at first. Top tip, in Yellowstone look for a car jam or a spotter scope then investigate. Indeed, this paid dividend as first a bald eagle then a Coyote revealed themselves. Further the odd Bison was lurking, so all was not lost. Finally though a herd of Bison appeared on the right, sure it was less than the 1000’s in the Lamar Valley as we were gleefully told by a passing motorist forgetting we were on bikes and a 800 metre climb stood in the way, but good enough.
Back on the shoulder less road, a procession of cars gave us good distance as they passed us by, many in convoys, posh sports cars, Harley Davidsons, even huge RV’s seemed to progress in packs.
Mud Volcano arrived, a one mile boardwalk to the sound of burping mud and bubbling water with the impressive Dragons Cave. All had diminished since the 1920s but could re-ignite at any time.
The last 6km to Fishing Bridge was tougher, gradual uphill, cloudy and steady traffic
Fishing Bridge was the country store or rather the souvenir palace with a basic diner hidden in the corner. Lunch consumed (in my case bagels) it was back for the return trip.
Sportingly the sun had decided to shine, the river flowed north, and we had a tail wind. Would I see the others again? Well, I gave it a go until the Hayden Valley when the sun stopped me short. Out came the binoculars, bingo a bald eagle on a stick. Of course, by drawing out the binoculars, I was now the centre of attention as cars drew up and I dutifully pointed it out, ‘no the second stick not the first is where the Bald Eagle is resting’ So much was my expertise sought that a Chinese car asked me if the wildlife along the way were in the left or the right side.
Next stop, ‘a bear’ well we thought it was, trouble was the bush at 200 metres failed to move after 15 minutes. ‘Yes it’s a bush’ sighed a tourist having checked it out with a spotter scope. However, the best was yet to come as a beautiful white coyote loped along the riverbank, fabulous.
The day ended, thoroughly exploring every conceivable view point to admire Canyon. At over 1200 metres deep in places and containing vivid reds, whites and yellow it was like an oil painting. There were 5 viewpoints including Artists Point and 3 access points, yup I chalked all of them up.
So tired and cold, I returned to Canyon for dinner and the canteen dinner.
Canyon to Old Faithful
It was cold as we ascended the fresh tarmac over the pass, so much so that all that clothing we had carried for 2 weeks were finally used.
Norris Geyser area was a delight, Colours and geysers and I acquired 2 polythene bags to keep my feet try. Past Gibbon Falls, through Madison and its small visitor centre I found a cyclepath that avoided the road for a section. Gravelled it followed the Firehole River. At Old Faithful we settled into the old part surrounded by a zillion day tripper. An evening meal in the restaurant with everyone warmed up again.
Old Faithful
An early buffet breakfast set folks up to go their separate ways. Old Faithful was due at 09:32 whilst the tour of the hotel started at 09:30. As an employee of 34 years the guide should know her stuff. Financed by the railroad the In. Was built over winter in 1904 by 50 carpenters. It used the local Lodgepile pine which makes up 85% of the trees to be reflected in the height that matched the tree 78 foot.
Outside old faithful, did its thing spouting every 90 minutes or so, apparently the Rangers time the length of an eruption and can predict the next one within 10 minutes which is quite remarkable.
All of us were to do different things on this day for me it was to cycle north to go and check out middle geyser basin and the mud pots a little bit further north which we missed in the rain yesterday. The huge pool was worth a look, but was far more impressive from the viewpoint next to the cycle path.
Back at Old Faithful, the Sun has finally come out, and the place was shining. Heading out with a camera the geysers were erupting, the bison were chewing and the Sun was setting. At the far end of the boardwalk there was a brief hairy moment when two bison, decided that grazing bang next to the boardwalk on both sections, back to old faithful, was a really good idea, so blocking both of the ways back. Fortunately they moved on.
Old faithful to Grant Village
Lorna had found this great coloured pool so after breakfast we tried to assemble to take a look, herding cats came into play as the gift shop called a few of our numbers. Never mind the 2 days already spent here, bargains were to be had.
We took the tarmac cycle path past loads of geysers and yes the pool was gorgeous, all colours of the rainbow. Heading back we passed Old Faithful for one more time ‘48 minutes till it erupts’ smiled Peter.
Onto the road to Grant which meant crossing the Continental Divide twice as it wriggled north. Plenty of trees, a few birds and lots of cars. A good shoulder and plenty of people stopping at the 2 divide signs as we climbed to both. Myself and Sharon would have been at the back but we played our joker telling 2 motorists from Australia that David was from Swansea and as he was born there, they hunted him down for a good chat, which somewhat delayed him.
We descended to West Thumb geyser station right by the enormous Yellowstone lake. Here blue pools, hook and cook and an Interesting ranger talk amused us.
Are they finished at Grants Village named after a civil war, veteran, quite a modern complex and a very modern feel .
Grant to Jackson
An early start for a long day as we assembled at the buffet breakfast at Grants Village . Loaded up with pastries fruit salad and inevitable bacon. It was a 07:30 start for most of us.
The Sun has only just risen, and the roads were surprisingly quiet. There was fog hanging over the lake and ice on the fallen tree trunks. Flat at first a huge canyon opened up on the left-hand side after which we descended at quite some speed following the river valley to the left-hand side. The cloud hanging over the valley looked wonderful. Numerous dead trees greeted us in the valley before cold to be where we assembled for coffee at the convenience store/garage.
By this time, we had pretty much split into three groups with the speedy ones setting off towards Jenny’s lake. The Sun has made an appearance and it was turning into a lovely scenic day.
The towering Tetons dominated the skyline on the right hand side as Sharon, and I pulled into an overlook to be greeted by a couple of rangers, pulling 2 stuffed bears out of a trailer. Pelts checked and claws felt, we continued on towards Jenny’s lake.
Now Jackson has made considerable efforts to install lots of cycle paths, and the longest one reached Jennys Lake onto which we were to finish the tour .
Where is where is the moose? Where are the Bears asked Sharon to the park. Ranger where the staff bears resided. ‘Oh’ he said, there’s one that was in residence all day yesterday next to the river. Just south of the airport. At Jackson hole.
We were greeted by two car jams on this last section. The first was a reported sighting of a grizzly bear five minutes before the second was far more exciting where a moose and calf was stuck next to a fence next to the cycle path pictures taken. we finish the ride into Jackson hole . The last evening meal proved to be Mexican where the TV is with showing images of Mexico’s Independence Day, where the guitarist and the singers were dancing in the rain sodden Mexico City.
So 700 miles were completed, what a trip