28th September - Boston
Jet lag always means an early start, so Sarah and I ended up having coffee and a delicious bagel at the pavement café. Back at the hotel, groups of us set off to walk the Freedom Trail, the red bricked path taking you past some of Boston’s iconic sights. We headed along the beautiful Commonwealth Avenue, a green corridor punctuated by statues to writers and past dignitaries to the start on Boston Common. The Granary Burial ground, Old Statehouse, dwarfed by skyscrapers and the Paul Revere Statue passed us by in the Boston sun, after which we separated, some to continue, for Sarah and I to catch the T line to Fenway Park to take in the baseball where the Boston Red Socks were to defeat the Detroit Tigers 4-3 in their final game of the regular season. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JI0duVgZiRc Walking back to the hotel we had a great time in an Irish pub listening to the music and eating a burger.
29th September – Boston and transfer
We had the morning to explore Boston, not long but long enough for Sarah and I to take in the extraordinary Boston Public Library. Built in two parts, the oldest was opened in 1895. Inside the 2 unpolished marble lions at the bottom of the staircase led to several galleries of amazing art. In the delivery room, a freeze of murals depicted Sir Galahads quest for the Holy Grail. The Bates reading room lit by green lamps seemed an ideal spot to study whilst the John Singer Sargent murals took 29 years to almost complete with a blank area untouched due to his death. https://www.boston-discovery-guide.com/boston-public-library.html
Back at the hotel we assembled with bikes for the two and a half hour transfer to Brattleboro which went smoothly once the bus driver announced himself from outside having seemingly hidden himself as my heart skipped a beat.
We settled into the Latchis Hotel, built in 1938 it would be our home for three days. One of only two remaining art deco buildings in Vermont, it has a large theatre and 3 smaller rooms that act as cinemas. Amy the manager and her staff were amazing as we shuffled the bikes upstairs to be allowed to reassemble them on the first floor and store our bags in the conference room.
30th September – Circular Ride to Northfield
Breakfast at the Works Café which serves all sorts of delights from breakfast burrito to bagel’s. Our first ride would take us along the Connecticut River through three states, Vermont, New Hampshire and Massachusetts. We were staying in the old part of Brattleboro so heading north we went through the northerly strip of shops and joy of joys there was a marked cycleway on the road. Crossing the river was busier to use a cyclist bridge built in 1938 and recorded as the prettiest iron bridge in that year. Turning right we ascended the hard packed gravel of Gulf Road to follow the stream upwards through the trees that were changing colour. A 150 metre climb passed that wasn’t too difficult after which south of Chesterfield we headed south to reach the highpoint at Kilburn Pond Trailhead. To Hinsdale it was a steep descent all the way back to river level, the climbing done for the day. America loves it’s firsts and indeed Hinsdale had one, the longest serving post office in constant use in the USA. Onwards to Northfield where we almost stopped at the first store which would have been a mistake as 200 metres further along was Mim’s Store and the Northfield Creamie, where I guzzled two milkshakes whilst the others enjoyed ice creams in the sunshine. A busier section along route 10 to head north again along a quiet road that got a little busier as we approached Brattleboro where we could hear the railroad also running along the valley. Our day ended watching Downton Abbey at the Latchis Cinema munching a huge bucket of popcorn.
1st October – Circular Ride to Putney and beyond
Sarah’s birthday, so we celebrated with a bagel at the works café after which it was north towards Dummerston where we went through our first covered bridge having admired an old iron worked one a few kilometres before. Another bright sunny day was a bonus, but the climb out of Dummerston was steep, very steep, probably the hardest of the holiday, splitting the group. Having waited at the top it was a fast descent towards East Dummerston where we joined route 5 to take a morning coffee stop at Putney Food Co-op.
For a few of us, we decided to return to Brattleboro along route 5 which was flat and pleasant. For 8 others it was along the route for the northerly loop.
2/10/2025 Brattleboro to Chester
Breakfasted and away, heading north along route 5. The shoulder was wide along the river, so we did the first quieter route through the hills but ignored the second gravel path to then pass the covered bridge at Dunnerston. To the east of Newfane is a delightful gravel road that we took, passes white fences, horses grazing and through the glorious colours on another bright sunny day. The gravel track was firm, and it was a beautiful ride. Joining route 30 we stopped for a break at the River Bend Market where the temptation to carry a gallon tub of maple syrup was indeed strong, instead it was coffee and muffins.
Passing through the pretty town of Townshend we started to climb through the woods heading for Grafton one of the prettiest villages in New England. Having summitted the quiet road to Grafton was an absolute delight, gradually downhill passing through farmland surrounded by wonderful autumn colour. Grafton is basically a pretty high street where the soup in the store was very tasty as we all sat outside. A bit of a climb out of Grafton preceded a long descent into Grafton where the accommodation highlight of the holiday awaited at Chester. The Victoria Inn on main street had 40 types of tea, a wonderful evening burger meal and a Halloween jigsaw puzzle which kept many of us amused especially Mike.
3/10/2025 – Chester to Woodstock
Chester to Woodstock A grand breakfast, orange juice, muesli in small glasses and blueberry pancakes fuelled us in advance for a day that was harder than its distance suggested. Dan took a group picture after which we headed north heading for the hills south of Woodstock. Route 103 had a good shoulder as we gradually climbed the river valley before we turned off through Proctorsville. Onwards and Northwards passing one of many posters denouncing the Trump presidency along a very quiet road in the shadow of reds, yellows and oranges. Turning to gravel we continued climbing with the road getting steeper as the top loomed. I made the mistake 3 times of telling Sarah that the top was round the corner but finally it arrived. A very long and beautiful descent finished at Felchville where the garden centre and shop provided coffee and cake. Sleep Woodstock was isolated, so we had to get dinner, fortunately the centre had groceries, so gnocchi and tomato sauce it was then. One thing about the USA is that food prices are maybe twice that in the UK.
Along the 106 gradually climbing heading for South Woodstock where maple ice creams were consumed on the front porch. The final part was over the hill on a gravel road to avoid the main roads, a bit of a push and a very careful descent that led to Lincoln Covered Bridge. Onto route 4 which was the busiest road yet with a narrow shoulder to sleep Woodcock. I had hired 6 rooms, one a double with a superb kitchen a real bonus, where we had a communal meal.
4/10/2025 – Circular Ride to Woodstock
The idea of staying in a place for a few days is you could adapt the cycling, so whilst Mike, Dawn and Julie did the long loop, the rest of us headed to Woodstock to do our own things. The route there was a delightful track to the south of the Ottauquechee River and route 4 that was pretty level. For others they explored the town, for Sarah and I we visited the Billings Museum. Due to the shutdown the house was closed but the farm provided plenty in interest with Jersey cows that grazed at night so the tourists could se them indoors, shorthorn sheep and a superb museum of old equipment set up 30 years ago along with a fascinating video on making a wooden water trough in a day.
We finished the day with a great communal meal and started on the 1000 piece puzzle that I bought at the museum.
05/10/2025 – Circular Ride to Quechee
Granola, fruit, yoghurt and bagel’s, thankyou Sarah for suggesting this one. In our large kitchen this was a great start to the day. Back into Woodstock along the track, then past Billings farm towards Pomfret. The sun was shining (again), and the roads were quiet with a few other cyclists about. At Pomfret school Kay and John were taking their tree of the day picture After which, we started to climb having passed the closed general store, well it is Sunday. Quite a long climb to top out at the Town Hall, a converted church gifted in the last century. Down we sped to West Hartford before our last major climb over the hill to descend to Quechee. I had been told that Quechee was a great place to visit, but it was pretty dispersed, no centre to talk off. By the covered bridge was a glass blowing studio, that was about it. As a result, we all headed to the 2 eateries on route 4 where we had a lovely vegetarian wrap. Quechee is though famed for its gorge to which we braved route 4 for a mile to the overlook at the bridge. The route back was flatter and quieter with an excellent piece of hard gravel riding to the east of Woodstock. Back at the motel we had another lovely communal meal and deep into the evening finished that puzzle, Mike, Julie, Valerie and Neil primarily.
6/10/2025 Woodstock to Bradford
The longest day beckoned as we tucked into granola, yoghurt and bagels. Along route 4 in the early morning sun to head over the covered bridge for the backroad gravel to Woodstock following the river on the left. Quieter today after the weekend influx, Woodstock looked familiar now, no overhead cables and hundreds of pumpkins on steps leading to pretty houses. Lunches bought at the supermarket it was a steep climb through farming views to cut through the countryside along a gravel track. Unfortunately, the grader was about, so a steady ride turned into a very tricky ride through soft sand. As Sarah said, ‘quite a waste of a downhill’ Flatter now a lot of us met up at Windsor covered bridge, the longest dual lanes bridge in the world. We parallel the railway track which took us to Claremont with its rails to trail path. Starting with a cold drink at the devil’s place, McDonalds as Kay called it, it was a hard ride as the surface was fine sand/gravel leading a few of us to abort taking the main road to Newport and another hard climb out. The road was quite busy as we headed west towards Bradford but once we reached the south end of Sunapee Lake and took the minor road to the guest house things were a lot better as the turkeys in the fields attested to.
We finished at Rosemont Country Inn, where we were to spend 2 nights. It had been a long day with Valerie, Shirley and Anita getting in just after dusk.
7th October – Circular ride from Bradford
Taking the advise from Stan, the Innkeeper, we headed along a pretty and very quiet country lane to Sutton, not passing through Bradford as planned because ‘there is nothing there’ Halloween decorations were out in full force and this years must have seemed to be enormous skeletons, two stories high. Onto route 4 where we came upon Kezar Lake which we cycled round admiring the autumn leaves against the blue water. Into New London, a college town. A High street with the usual suspects, pretty spired church, a civil war memorial and a good coffee stop. The stool I found in the corner caused amusement as it had 2 pedals attached, a gift from a local cycling club.
We split after this, for myself a long double back as I’d dropped a key at the café but it gave time to check out the town for the second time.
As expected the cycle next to the lake only had intermittent views of the lake as it was surrounded by woodland, but in the warmth of the day it was a relaxed ride. Back at the Inn a dinner of chicken or salmon awaited us with a birthday tiramisu, especially ordered by Sarah for my birthday.
8th October Bradford to Peterborough
After 9 days of wall to wall sunshine, rain was falling. Much needed, the lack had caused many of the trees to drop leaves early, but for us the colours were amazing. We decided to leave at 10:30 after a particularly imaginative breakfast, stuffed mushrooms anyone? The ride itself was a bit of a get there day but would still provide a lot of variety. We started on a more major road, but it’s wide shoulder and light traffic as well as being flat made this a good start. From Nenniker we took to the back roads on the old road to Hillsborough where a proper American Diner awaited. Suitably loaded up with blueberry pancakes and maple syrup, it was south towards Bennington and onwards to Peterborough. The roads were quiet with old graveyards, covered bridges and Halloween decorations to look out for. At Peterborough we settled into the Inn spending the evening at a local pub, drinking delicious local microbrews and listening to the open mike evening.
9th October Circular Ride from Peterborough
Mount Monadnock is the most walks mountain in the USA. The aim today was to cycle along the eastern side. A buffet style breakfast at Peterborough preceded the start of a gradual climb to Dublin the highest village in the area, a different claim to the historic sign that is a grander claim. Another beautiful but cold day through the trees passing in one place a myriad of pipes gathering the sap from trees to make Maple Syrup.
Dublin store produced the most enormous and delicious sandwiches after which we cycled the north shore of Skatutakee Lake to return to Peterborough.
10th October Peterborough to Brattleboro
Sarah braved the early morning chill to collect fresh muffins from the local bakery as we packed to leave for our final ride. The skies were clear, but it was cold, fortunate that we’d lugged all those clothes with us for nearly two weeks. Through the pretty main street of Peterborough with the big climb back to Dublin in sight. Tarmac at first then gravel the route would take us to the north of the imposing Mount Monadnock, the most climbed hill in the USA by all accounts. The tree colours were grand and the gravel firm as we reached the edge of Dublin to descend, heading westwards. More gravel towards Malborough where we took a small detour to the store to pick up coffee and wait for Valerie who had wisely chosen to take a taxi on the hardest part of the day.
We set of at just after midday towards Swanzey along quiet lanes that would take us to the south of Pisgah State Park. Winchester sounded big, especially if you came from England, but the roads were quiet and very scenic and more importantly flat as we entered the small town. West now following the Ashuelot river along a very smooth tarmacked road. A rail to trail zig zagged about us, but the surface was far rougher so why spoil the ride? Crossing the Ashuelot Covered Bridge we avoided the fine for speeding across it to keep following the river along a busier road to Hinsdale that we had visited 10 days ago.
The final section to Brattleboro was busier along the highway to the east of the Connecticut River to arrive at Brattleboro where we headed to Echo restaurant for our last dinner together in the centre of town. Onto West Chesterfield where Amy the brilliant manager from The Lachis Hotel had had our bike bags delivered. Pam the receptionist was again brilliant, allowing us to dismantle the bikes in a private room.
So New England came to an end, glorious weather and beautiful trees.